Digital Photography Training
For the Beginning Photographer

We will now continue on with the series of basic photography tips...

So, that's why we've included it here in digital photography training.

To understand it, you need to realize one particular fact in which your eyes have been deceiving you.

When you look at most photographs (any photo where all the objects are not EXACTLY THE SAME DISTANCE and DIRECTION FROM YOU), objects that are at varying distances from the camera appear to be in focus.

In reality, only the pellican is in perfect focus. Here is the basic photography truth: there is only one point in any photograph that is in perfect focus.

The exception to this rule is if there are more than one object in the same plane and distance from the camera. In that case, all objects in the same plane and distance from the camera would be in focus.

Other objects in the photograph which seem to be in focus, technically are not. They are within what could be called "the zone of sharpness," and hence they appear sharp or, "in focus."

The Depth of Field is the distance in front of and behind the exact focus point. This is the area which seems to be in focus.

You can tell the depth of field after a photograph is printed by determining the range of objects which are in focus.

For example, if the closest object in a particular photographic print that seems sharp is at 5 feet, and the most distant object is at 15 feet, then the depth of field extends from 5 to 15 feet from the camera.

Realize that depth of field is not an absolute measure, as it depends on the size of the print, the viewing distance and the visual acuity of the observer.

Why are we spending all this time on depth of field? Without an understanding of how to blur what you want and not blur what you want sharp, you will only produce the desired results about 1/2 the time.

When you see an object/subject that you want to capture (and, have in focus), you can do so by making the subject remain in sharp focus while the background is blurred (or "thrown out of focus").

Or, you can photograph the same subject and blur it, while keeping the background in focus.

Two obvious examples involve taking a picture of a beautiful rose in front of an unsightly garbage dump. You would want to blur the background as much as possible, while the rose is clear and sharp.

On the other hand, a photograph of your family in front of the Grand Canyon loses most of its impact if you can't tell it's the Grand Canyon, right? In that case, you want to have BOTH foreground and background as sharp as possible.

So, how do we create the effect we want? There are several factors that go into depth of field: lens focal length, camera-to-subject distance, and aperture.

We will focus on the basic points for achieving these 2 different result.

• To have everything in the photo SHARP:
  
  For landscapes and large groups, use a normal or wide angle lens (not telephoto) and as small an aperture as possible (F22 for example).

• To have the main subject sharp while the background is out of focus:
  
  Typically for portraits, use a mild telephoto lens (minimum 100mm) in combination with a very large aperture (example: F/2.8). If a telephoto is not handy, use as large an aperture of whichever lens you are using.

The camera's aperture is the hole through which light enters the camera.

Since every camera has an aperture, it doesn't technically belong under the "Digital Photography Training" heading; however it is important to understand how it impacts digital photography.

Apertures are measured using a relative scale, called "F numbers" such as F/4, F/5.6, F/8, F/11, etc. The smaller F numbers refer to larger openings to let in light. The larger the aperture (smaller F number) the less time the camera needs to take a picture. For any particular light level and ISO, there is a range of "equivalent exposures" which will produce the same digitally exposed photograph.

For example, the following combinations of how long the shutter is open (shutter speed) and aperture opening (f number) will produce the same exposure:

• 1/500 at F/4

• 1/250 at F/5.6

• 1/125 at F/11

• 1/60 at F/16

Although the above settings will produce the same exposure, the results will often look rather different. As an example, if you are photographing a moving car, 1/500 at F/4 will probably give a fairly sharp result because the aperture is only open a very short time.

However, if you use the slower shutter speed of 1/60 at F/16 you will get a blurred result, since the car has moved quite a distance in 1/60th of a second.

Part of the challenge involved with digital photography training is that there are so many different digital cameras available. Since each camera uses different modes, controls, and technologies, digital photography training has to stay somewhat generic.

Many simpler cameras do not allow you to control the aperture independently. However, they may offer different "program modes," such as a "sports" or "action" program.

These programs use a very fast shutter speed, typically between 1/500 and 1/2000. Check your manual for specific details.


Digital Photography Training Tip #10:
Shutter Speed and Subject Movement

Shutter speeds are very important when photographing moving subjects. Without going into heavy mathematical discussions, adhere to the following guidelines to reduce motion blur:

• When the subject is moving across your field of view (right to left, for example), panning the camera while you take the shot will keep your subject sharp and blur the surroundings.

• If you are not panning, use as high a shutter speed as possible with your lens (1/2000 second for example).

• If you can't use that high a shutter speed, increase your ISO (as long as the result won't be grainy). That will allow you to go to a faster shutter speed.

• The farther you are from the subject, the less of an impact will be made by subject movement.

• How to Really Use Your Camera's Aperture

• Learning About Photoshop

• The Top 10 Digital Photography Tips

• Which Digital Camera Features Are Important For You?

• Photography Articles

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